paint&detail

Building created and photographed by Roy Leon Durham
TECH TIPS

Sanding

•
Spray the back of 100-grit sandpaper with spray adhesive, or use Woodland Scenics Mat Adhesive and press it down to a hard, flat board. When it dries, it makes a great, flat sanding surface for your building parts. Clamp or attach it to your work surface so it doesn’t slide around as you sand.

•
Never sand the front or side wall of a DPM kit because the front detail wraps around the sides (however, you can sand the bottom of the piece).

•
When your building is assembled, sand the bottom in a circular motion so it sits flat.

Gluing

•
Ask your local hobby shop for recommended solvents to assemble N and HO scale buildings. Solvents weld the parts together (instead of adhering). The parts need to be in place and touching when applying the solvents. Any epoxy is recommended for O scale buildings.

Painting

•
Masking: Attach paper towels with masking tape to mask your building when you are painting with an airbrush. Spray the wall from every angle to get an even coverage.

•
In real life, builders almost always used high-quality bricks on the face of the buildings and “common brick” on the sides and back. Recreate this look by painting the front a different color than the sides and back.

•
Using acrylic paint and a flat, chiseled brush, paint the trim on windows, doors, etc. The paint will flow smoothly in the detail. If you make a mistake rub it off with a damp cloth. In real life, builders usually purchased their window trim paint in bulk. Use the same colors of trim on a building. To detail caps, sills and lintels paint with concrete color.

•
To clean your brushes after using acrylic paint, spray them with an over-the-counter window cleaner containing ammonia and then rinse in clean water.

Window Detailing

•
After painting your structure, you can add windows – a great detailing piece. Just look around your world and see these kinds of details you can replicate:
Shades and curtains - Use pieces of masking tape, custom colored to match your décor. To make realistic shades, set your masking tape at differing heights in the window for a lived-in look. To make older shades, set them at an angle, or rip the tape to make them look worn. For curtains, cut strips of masking tape and tape them onto the inside of the windows in different configurations.
Frost - Before inserting your window, sand it lightly with 320 grit sandpaper on the outer edges. Install the window as usual.
Newspaper print - Many times older buildings have plastered their windows with old newspapers. You can reproduce that look using small copy from any newspaper. Reduce the copy on a copier until it matches your scale. Give your newsprint an aged look by soaking it in tea or coffee for a short time.
Bullet holes and cracks - Use a small brad or a Woodland Scenics Foam Nail to push a small hole into an already installed window. If your windows are acetate, the pin will cause a small bruise around the hole, which gives a very realistic appearance. Use the Foam Nail to scratch or etch cracks in the windows. Use a hobby knife to create broken windowpanes.
Boarded up windows - Use very thin strips of painted styrene, or strips of scale balsa wood to give the windows a boarded up look. You can also use matchsticks, craft sticks and other materials to create this effect.
Awnings - You can use a standard awning, and then cut holes and fray the edges for an aged look, or paint and weather for a more recent installation. Create your own awnings from construction paper and paint. Then weather them.

Weathering Tips & Techniques

•
Weathering occurs naturally with exposure to the sun, rain and wind, especially in locations where water drains off. Water promotes weathering and erosion, especially on stone, brick and masonry work. Chimneys, downspouts, windows, roof vents, air-conditioners and building additions are prime locations for weathering and erosion.
For the best results, start by weathering the whole structure first. If you are airbrushing, use Grimy Black or Weathered Black Floquil to lightly spray in select areas only. Add more where discoloration occurs (under windows and chimneys, along tops of walls).
If you don’t have an airbrush, you can use charcoal or chalk pastels to weather your building. The best way is to scrub the chalk into medium grit sandpaper. Load up a paintbrush with the chalk color. Carefully paint the chalk onto your previously painted structure. You can add weathering underneath windows, the sides of chimneys, under the sides of any kind of fascia, architectural moldings, etc. If you will be handling your buildings, it is best to spray a light coat of Testor’s Dull Coat over the surfaces to protect the weathering techniques.

Additional Detailing

•
Dry Transfer Decals make great signs in windows and on buildings without leaving a film. Woodland Scenics has a complete line of Dry Transfer Decals to choose from.

•
Adding Figures: For a realistic look, add details such as vehicles, lights, signs, generators, gas meters, awnings and more. Don’t forget figures, such as roofers, painters, cable guys, pedestrians, etc. Woodland Scenics has a great selection of Scenic Accents.

•

You will want to add these other realistic details to your buildings:
Roof Details - This is a feature greatly overlooked on most layouts. It is very important to detail these, because most layouts are viewed from a bird’s eye view, and you will want your buildings to look as authentic as possible. Especially on structures from 1935 and before, roof hatches, vents, chimneys and stairwells were a prominent piece of the building.
Interior - Some people create detailed interiors for their buildings, including lights and figures. A simple way to create an occupied look is to obstruct the view with a piece of black construction paper. Set the paper from corner to corner at an angle inside the structure. This keeps the viewer from seeing straight through the building.
Rooftop billboards and signs - Many signs, posters and photos are available in old magazines, which you can copy, then attach to a billboard. If you haven’t purchased a kit with a billboard, you can build one from scale balsa wood. These signs add a lot of excitement to your cityscape and tall buildings.

Don’t forget that when you finally get your buildings done (and they are sitting on your layout) to add plantings around the foundations. Old and neglected buildings usually have vines or scrub around them. Putting on these layers of detail makes your structures look very realistic.

Placing Your Building on a Layout

•
When placing a building on a contoured layout, measure the area and cut out the terrain shell. Install a foam base so it is level and add building.

•
There may be seams and cracks where buildings attach to the layout. Camouflage them with Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf, Underbrush, Bushes or Foliage products.

•
When designing your city, be sure to plan for a corner building.

Home

*Sanding*
•	Spray the back of 100-grit sandpaper with spray adhesive, or use Woodland Scenics Mat Adhesive and press it down to a hard, flat board. When it dries, it makes a great, flat sanding surface for your building parts. Clamp or attach it to your work surface so it doesn’t slide around as you sand.
•	Never sand the front or side wall of a DPM kit because the front detail wraps around the sides (however, you can sand the bottom of the piece).
•	When your building is assembled, sand the bottom in a circular motion so it sits flat.
*Gluing*
•	Ask your local hobby shop for recommended solvents to assemble N and HO scale buildings. Solvents weld the parts together (instead of adhering). The parts need to be in place and touching when applying the solvents. Any epoxy is recommended for O scale buildings.
*Painting*
•	*Masking:* Attach paper towels with masking tape to mask your building when you are painting with an airbrush. Spray the wall from every angle to get an even coverage.
•	In real life, builders almost always used high-quality bricks on the face of the buildings and “common brick” on the sides and back. Recreate this look by painting the front a different color than the sides and back.
•	Using acrylic paint and a flat, chiseled brush, paint the trim on windows, doors, etc. The paint will flow smoothly in the detail. If you make a mistake rub it off with a damp cloth. In real life, builders usually purchased their window trim paint in bulk. Use the same colors of trim on a building. To detail caps, sills and lintels paint with concrete color.
•	To clean your brushes after using acrylic paint, spray them with an over-the-counter window cleaner containing ammonia and then rinse in clean water.
*Window Detailing*
•	After painting your structure, you can add windows – a great detailing piece. Just look around your world and see these kinds of details you can replicate: Shades and curtains - Use pieces of masking tape, custom colored to match your décor. To make realistic shades, set your masking tape at differing heights in the window for a lived-in look. To make older shades, set them at an angle, or rip the tape to make them look worn. For curtains, cut strips of masking tape and tape them onto the inside of the windows in different configurations. Frost - Before inserting your window, sand it lightly with 320 grit sandpaper on the outer edges. Install the window as usual. *Newspaper print* - Many times older buildings have plastered their windows with old newspapers. You can reproduce that look using small copy from any newspaper. Reduce the copy on a copier until it matches your scale. Give your newsprint an aged look by soaking it in tea or coffee for a short time. Bullet holes and cracks - Use a small brad or a Woodland Scenics Foam Nail to push a small hole into an already installed window. If your windows are acetate, the pin will cause a small bruise around the hole, which gives a very realistic appearance. Use the Foam Nail to scratch or etch cracks in the windows. Use a hobby knife to create broken windowpanes. Boarded up windows - Use very thin strips of painted styrene, or strips of scale balsa wood to give the windows a boarded up look. You can also use matchsticks, craft sticks and other materials to create this effect. Awnings - You can use a standard awning, and then cut holes and fray the edges for an aged look, or paint and weather for a more recent installation. Create your own awnings from construction paper and paint. Then weather them.
Weathering Tips & Techniques
•	Weathering occurs naturally with exposure to the sun, rain and wind, especially in locations where water drains off. Water promotes weathering and erosion, especially on stone, brick and masonry work. Chimneys, downspouts, windows, roof vents, air-conditioners and building additions are prime locations for weathering and erosion. For the best results, start by weathering the whole structure first. If you are airbrushing, use Grimy Black or Weathered Black Floquil to lightly spray in select areas only. Add more where discoloration occurs (under windows and chimneys, along tops of walls). If you don’t have an airbrush, you can use charcoal or chalk pastels to weather your building. The best way is to scrub the chalk into medium grit sandpaper. Load up a paintbrush with the chalk color. Carefully paint the chalk onto your previously painted structure. You can add weathering underneath windows, the sides of chimneys, under the sides of any kind of fascia, architectural moldings, etc. If you will be handling your buildings, it is best to spray a light coat of Testor’s Dull Coat over the surfaces to protect the weathering techniques.
*Additional Detailing*
•	*Dry Transfer Decals* make great signs in windows and on buildings without leaving a film. Woodland Scenics has a complete line of Dry Transfer Decals to choose from.
•	*Adding Figures:* For a realistic look, add details such as vehicles, lights, signs, generators, gas meters, awnings and more. Don’t forget figures, such as roofers, painters, cable guys, pedestrians, etc. Woodland Scenics has a great selection of Scenic Accents.
•	You will want to add these other realistic details to your buildings: Roof Details - This is a feature greatly overlooked on most layouts. It is very important to detail these, because most layouts are viewed from a bird’s eye view, and you will want your buildings to look as authentic as possible. Especially on structures from 1935 and before, roof hatches, vents, chimneys and stairwells were a prominent piece of the building. Interior - Some people create detailed interiors for their buildings, including lights and figures. A simple way to create an occupied look is to obstruct the view with a piece of black construction paper. Set the paper from corner to corner at an angle inside the structure. This keeps the viewer from seeing straight through the building. *Rooftop billboards and signs* - Many signs, posters and photos are available in old magazines, which you can copy, then attach to a billboard. If you haven’t purchased a kit with a billboard, you can build one from scale balsa wood. These signs add a lot of excitement to your cityscape and tall buildings. Don’t forget that when you finally get your buildings done (and they are sitting on your layout) to add plantings around the foundations. Old and neglected buildings usually have vines or scrub around them. Putting on these layers of detail makes your structures look very realistic.
*Placing Your Building on a Layout*
•	When placing a building on a contoured layout, measure the area and cut out the terrain shell. Install a foam base so it is level and add building.
•	There may be seams and cracks where buildings attach to the layout. Camouflage them with Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf, Underbrush, Bushes or Foliage products.
•	When designing your city, be sure to plan for a corner building.